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33 Coin Street
Thanks to a harmonious mix of fine Loire wines and carefully crafted European food, it’s been a fruitful time for this Waterloo veteran since opening its doors in 1980. RSJ’s interior remains
understated – all crisp linen, light wood and cool grey walls – while relaxed, convivial service and a crowd of loyal regulars ensure that the place runs along healthily. The carte promises some
complex treats, from warm mackerel with poached quails’ eggs, balsamic onions and tapenade to chocolate and almond cake with caramel mascarpone cream and orange sauce, but it’s also worth taking
advantage of the set menu (£16.95/19.95 for two/three courses) if you’re happy to sample the likes of smoked chicken and foie-gras terrine followed by braised onglet with horseradish dumplings,
buttered kale and parsley jus. Wine tastings, themed evenings and cookery demos also help to keep things fresh. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Claude Papin, Clos de Coulaine, Savennières, Loire Valley,
France, £25.95. BEST BUY RED 2009 Domaine de la Perrière, Baudry-Dutour, Chinon, Loire Valley, France, £19.95.
33 Coin Street
020 7928 4554
Waterloo Tube Station 430m
Waterloo East Station 461m
OXO Tower 215m
National Theatre 272m
Mon-Fri 12N-2.30pm 5.15-11pm Sat 5.15-11pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
Think of the Loire Valley and images of idyllic chateaux and picturesque countryside spring to mind. RSJ could not be further from this, a restaurant with a slightly grubby exterior tucked away on a side street near Waterloo. However, the main event here is the wines. The Loire constitutes one of the most impressive but most undervalued wine regions in France, a long way metaphorically and geographically from its more fashionable Bordeaux and Burgundy-based siblings. Nonetheless, the Loire, stretching from Nantes on the Atlantic Coast to just west of Paris offers everything in wine terms, from sparkling to sweet via dry and in all hues, white, rosé and red. No other wine region in France can quite match this and no other restaurant I have visited in either the UK or France can quite match RSJ’s range of some 250+ Loire varieties. It gets better than that. Many are available at RSJ in both half-bottle and single-glass format, priced competitively from £4 a glass and £12 a half-bottle. Unsurprisingly, staff (whom, one gets the impression, had been long-serving at the restaurant) were both knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Although we clearly came for the food too, there was no attempt made to rush us through our meal and indeed we were encouraged to stay once we had finished dining to sample more wines. We worked our way back and forth along the Loire Valley, beginning with a bone-dry, lip-tingling Muscadet and finishing with a remarkably structured Bourgeuil. The food was relatively basic, but well-executed and at £17 for two courses can neither be faulted nor seen as expensive. My onglet steaks for the main were perfectly tender, horseradish dumplings wonderfully innovative and the sauce (a parsley jus) a welcome complement. One of my dining comrades also singled out for praise her starter of devilled chicken livers, toasted brioche, fried duck egg and smoked bacon. A cholesterol-heavy combination, but beautifully presented and, again, with pitch-perfect meat. A definite hidden gem of a restaurant. Come first for the wine, but also for the food.
Food + drink: 3
I've eaten here 3 times, and enjoyed the food and prompt, friendly service each time. I'll go again.
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