SquareMeal Review of
Roux at The Landau
Roux at the Landau, The Langham hotel’s more formal, food-orientated option than its Artesian bar and Wigmore pub, re-opened in summer 2018 following a refurb. David Collins Studio has done a subtle update on the high-ceilinged Edwardian room, adding Parma Violet-coloured leather chairs and pistachio green banquettes. A curving wall of windows in an elevated position above Langham Place remains the dining room’s biggest asset; there’s also now a central counter for solo dining, although without an open kitchen to eat around, it feels rather exposed.
Foodwise, the cooking has been simplified, although Roux luxury – Michel Jr oversees the menu – runs like a vein through the menu: XL Orkney scallop comes with oscietra caviar, braised turbot with native lobster ravioli. But there’s invention, too: seared foie gras is partnered by rabbit and pig’s trotters on toast, with pickled veg to cut through all the richness, while a Lake District lamb chop gets a North African accent with a dusting of ras en hanout. As at Michel’s Le Gavroche, there’s a good-value lunch menu (two/three courses £25/30), or a five-course tasting menu for £35, as well as à la carte.
It’s still a very hotel-feeling space, but that does make it a useful spot for breakfast and lunch meetings, while afternoon tea is served in the neighbouring Palm Court. And come the evening, it’s well placed for moving on to drinks at Artesian or The Wigmore.
Roux at The Landau is recommended for
Counter Tasting Menu: Four course £39
From a set menu, Wine flight of 4 glasses '100ml' £25.
Maximum of 2 diners. This offer only valid for the counter seating. No other seating will be available. Includes Tax, excludes service.