SquareMeal Review of
This Shoreditch smokehouse perfectly captures the essence of modern London dining – a target that many lesser restaurants aim for and miss. The stark white walls and dark wood of its cosy, contemporary interior are softened by seriously sexy lighting, discreet original features and jars of colourful home-pickled vegetables that nod to Rök’s Nordic inspiration. The bar dispenses a short list of stylish cocktails, while chefs in the open kitchen expertly haul nearly everything over the coals: from huge scallops served in a pool of smoky, chilli-fired ’nduja oil, to tender smoked beef shortrib, cooked sous-vide, grilled for colour and flavour, then doused in birch syrup. Even a broccoli side dish is char-grilled (exquisitely), then mixed with quinoa and seeds. Dessert, too, is smokin’: coal-roasted peach served with sense-tingling Laphroaig-laced crème fraîche and caramelised almonds. The short wine list contains bottles to match every dish – just ask the passionate, professional staff.