SquareMeal Review of
Old Fire Station
This bright red, gloss-painted eatery on the Isle of Dogs is what happened when the folks from the kebab shop over the way decided to go upmarket. Once a fire station (hence the name & the
colour scheme), it’s now a charming bar & bistro that ranks as the best of the local bunch for business & pleasure – even if the cooking doesn’t exactly hit the gastronomic heights. Expect
generic Middle Eastern food with some influences from the Eastern Mediterranean: taramasalata, feta & spinach parcels or stuffed vine leaves are good openers, before big salads, hearty stews
& baked dishes including lamb tagine, moussaka or stuffed peppers. All that’s missing is a charcoal grill for kebabs – although the assortment of pasta & brunch dishes almost makes up for
it. Look for Turkish labels on the very affordable wine list.