SquareMeal Review of
Chef Scott Smith learnt his trade with Michelin-starred Geoffrey Smeddle (see The Peat Inn) and has brought all his experience to bear at this Edinburgh restaurant named after the ancient Scottish language. The four- and seven-course menus at his stripped-back intimate venue offer a “fantastic showcase of local ingredients and contemporary Scottish cuisine”, with lots of “unusual flavour combinations” keeping diners on their toes. Delightfully dark, chewy sourdough made with Orcadian beremeal (barley flour) is served with cultured butter churned on the premises – an enterprising warm-up for, say, pretty plates of mussels with smoked tomato and cucumber or Eassie Farm asparagus with quail’s egg, alexanders and smoked spinach. After that, perhaps try deeply flavoured Texel lamb with a crispy slice of flank wrapped in a cabbage leaf, some walnut purée and an umami-rich sprinkle of powdered scallop roe, before rounding off with an inspired combo of woodruff, ground ivy, popcorn and rhubarb. The ambience is “chilled”, staff are knowledgeable as well as friendly, and the concise (but “fabulous”) wine list features natural and biodynamic offerings from small-scale producers.