Norn 22

Squaremeal Review of Norn ?

Chef Scott Smith, who learnt his trade with Michelin-starred Geoffrey Smeddle, has acquired the site of The Plumed Horse to open Norn (named after an ancient Scottish language). The four- and seven-course menus at this stripped-back intimate restaurant constantly evolve, informed by seasonal Scottish produce and foraged ingredients. A concise wine list contains natural and biodynamic wines from small-scale producers. Delightfully dark, chewy sourdough made with Orcadian beremeal is served with cultured butter churned on the premises: a promising start. The plates that followed continued to impress: a dish of Shetland black potatoes, white crab meat and fresh rapeseeds had a richly umami Marmite finish. Tender cubes of succulent chicken breast followed, enlivened by crisp skin, earthy mushroom ketchup and sautéed cavalo nero; and an inspired dish of woodruff, ground ivy, popcorn and rhubarb was salty, sour and complex. Already building a following, Norn is an enticing addition to Leith.

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