SquareMeal Review of
Destined to be the first in a collection that will bring a fresh approach to the high street, British brasserie Mustard is the brainchild of Lawrence Hartley and Tim Healy – owners of Joe Allen in Covent Garden – and chef Jason Wild. The kitchen shows admirable commitment to local ingredients and seasonal produce, with a changing set menu offering excellent value. A starter of grilled asparagus, soft-boiled egg and Sussex Charmer cheese from the specials was attractive and well-balanced, while a main of tender new-season lamb hotpot with baby turnips, peas and broad beans was light and spring-like. We also relished a hearty plate of slow-cooked Gloucester Old Spot ham with peas, cream and herbs: intensely savoury, deeply comforting. Puddings showcase simple ingredients: warm rhubarb crumble was spiked with aromatic caraway seeds; a sweet-yet-sharp red berry sorbet arrived topped with seasonal fruits. With its buzzy atmosphere, straightforward yet classy decor, and confident, laid-back service, Mustard feels like the local brasserie every neighbourhood should have.
Mustard is recommended for