SquareMeal Review of
The Dickensian lanes around foodie mecca Borough Market make an apt setting for the sixth London Hawksmoor, the chain which offers a contemporary take on the traditional British steakhouse. The leather-chaired, 160-cover dining room is on the first floor of a converted Victorian warehouse, all brick walls and big windows. Hawksmoor’s delicious-sounding menu classics are all here, while trying to choose is even tougher thanks to the Borough Market specials menu (ox-cheek cottage pie, for example). Starters from the main menu include a pair of hefty Old Spot belly ribs, deliriously sticky, or Yorkshire puddings that act as edible bowls for potted beef dolloped into a pool of gravy. Perfectly cooked steaks are the main event, each charred and crusted without and ruby-red within. Fabulously good sides such as sticky gobbets of roasted marrow or soft chunks of maple bacon almost steal the show, the latter being so sweet that it shows up with doughnuts on the pudding menu. Staff could do with more training on the finer points of a Euro-focused wine list (with decent choice under £30), and we were sorry that on a busy Saturday night nearly all of the bar area was given over to diners. Nevertheless, this is another accomplished outfit from a fantastic group, proving British cooking is at its best when it’s done simply, with top-notch ingredients.
Hawksmoor Borough is recommended for