SquareMeal Review of
Gul & Sepoy
Husband and wife team Harneet and Devina Baweja (who started out with the hugely popular Gunpowder) have continued their takeover of Spitalfields with this new ‘double restaurant’ concept – a rustic two-floor space featuring an oak-panelled cocktail bar/dining counter downstairs and more intimate marble ‘feasting tables’ above. The menu is split between dishes inspired by palatial Indian banquets (Gul), and simpler plates based on rustic village cooking (Sepoy). The former might feature jackfruit and walnut patties, a ‘royal’ pulao and a luxurious three-bird korma, while the latter offers up the likes of garlicky chicken skewers and potted pig’s head with blood masala onions. There are a few too many staff for such a small restaurant, but waiters are happy to explain the sharing menu – top picks on our visit included moist yam and paneer kofta chaat served on rice with bursts of pomegranate, intensely spicy mutton fry, and flaky sea bass marinated in a sharp mix of mango and ginger, bathed in a creamy coconut-based sauce. Desserts such as rum baba with whipped cream are less memorable, while wide-ranging wines and Indian-inspired cocktails tick the boxes for drinkers. Unlike the group’s other restaurants, Gul & Sepoy takes bookings.