SquareMeal Review of
Imperial by name and imperial by nature, this grand Chinese within Victoria station’s Grosvenor Hotel has been regally decked out according to the principles of feng shui (think 19th-century coved ceilings meet ornate calligraphy screens). Efficient, helpful staff man the room, service is fast and the kitchen offers a “decently priced” hybrid of Cantonese and eclectic Hong Kong-style cuisine, with seafood showing up strongly: try prawn won ton soup, grilled abalone with smoked honey sauce or steamed sea bass with red chilli and yellow bean sauce. Otherwise, the menu follows a fascinating meaty trail from thinly sliced marinated beef with spicy sauce via ‘empress’ chicken with jellyfish to a classy version of Peking duck. A big contingent of affordable dim sum satisfies the lunchtime crowd, and the wine list features some impressive food-friendly Rieslings. There are dreamy Chinese-style afternoon teas too.