SquareMeal Review of
Goodman Canary Wharf
There are plenty of steakhouses in London, but some readers say that Russian mini-chain Goodman sets “the benchmark for quality meat and top-level service”. This branch is less cramped than its siblings, with leather-upholstered banquettes, low-slung lighting and big windows combining to produce an industrial twist on members’ club comfort. Customers who come for “the best steak money can buy” are certainly happy to pay the price for meat that is expertly dry-aged on site, then cooked on the Josper grill. Seek out the blackboard (aka ‘the cut’) to find out what’s best from the ageing room – perhaps Nebraskan USDA, Suffolk Wagyu, Australian Angus or Scottish Hereford. Building a meal around a vast steak takes restraint, but there’s always room for the tiger prawn tempura or lobster and corn chowder. California looms large on the “magnificent” wine list, which is also big on by-the-glass options and showboating larger formats.