SquareMeal Review of
Occupying a prime spot just off Wigmore Street, Delamina is well-placed to mop up diners from foodie Marylebone and restaurant-starved Oxford Street. Husband and wife owners Amir and Limor Chen also own Strut & Cluck in Shoreditch, and with Delamina’s muted colour palette and homely furniture, there’s a strong family resemblance between the two restaurants, although tables feel much closer together here: don’t come with anything confidential to discuss.
The cooking takes its cue from Limor’s childhood in Tel Aviv as well as a family background that takes in Russia and Iran. Unusually for this style of food, main courses and puddings were the best things we ate, especially a beguilingly sweet and spicy whole poussin glazed with ras-el-hanout and honey, and a super-smooth halva and roast almond parfait in which the sugariness was offset by a savoury drizzle of tahini. We also rated pitta with a double dip of aubergine and tahini, and an alluring jumble of charcoaled leeks with manouri cheese and dried apricots. To drink, there’s a short list of wines and beers including options from Lebanon and Israel. Friendly staff are another plus at an eastern Mediterranean restaurant that offers a fresh alternative to the usual Middle Eastern mezze-and-grills formula.
Delamina is recommended for