SquareMeal Review of
“Supremely comfortable and slickly designed”, this debut from Abdul Yaseen (ex-The Cinnamon Club) is a satisfying amalgam of east and west, with bags of “boutique polish” to boot. Inside, Darbaar resembles a contemporary Indian palace complete with gold chandeliers, splashes of midnight blue, copper tones and silver elephant heads adorning the walls – although the opulence is offset by an open kitchen with a wood-fired oven used for cooking the signature ‘nanza’ (pizza naans). Food-wise, everything delivers: readers rave about the free-range butter chicken and the warmly spiced baked rabbit with corn and chilli sauce, although we favour ‘Abdul’s platter’ of assorted grills and kebabs (paneer, salmon, chicken, lamb) – a “masterpiece of multi-layered flavour”. Elsewhere, the rich dhal boasts “formidable intensity”, while dessert might bring halwa (spiced carrot cake) with lemon figs. With an international drinks list, private dining and a chef’s table, Darbaar feels like a winner – although a few more customers would bump up its atmosphere.