Cross Keys

107 Water Lane, The Round Foundry , UK, LS11 5WD

SquareMeal Review of Cross Keys

Leeds has never quite mastered the urban gastropub concept but the Cross Keys is a hot bet to put that right. As derelict Holbeck springs into life, a grungy old shell has been given the classiest of makeovers with a summer courtyard, a proper bar with real ales and fancy import lagers, and a spiral staircase to a stripped down restaurant that still feels like a grand private dining room. Light bites downstairs at lunch offer the likes of ravioli of wild mushrooms, parmesan and truffle oil, garlic and mint oil. For dinner start with terrine of black-leg chicken, Serrano ham and asparagus followed by a main of rissotto of pine nuts, spring onion, mushrooms, mozzarella. The kitchen and service got off to a wobbly start in the opening weeks but a recent lunch was a real winner.

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