SquareMeal Review of
Ex-Midsummer House chef Hans Schweitzer has upped the ante by moving his fine dining restaurant Cotto to a newly built space in Cambridge’s recently refurbished Gonville Hotel. The glass-fronted dining room is opulently attired, coming complete with teal crushed-velvet upholstery and dedicated handbag stools. Schweitzer’s brief but well-balanced pan-European menu kicks of with starters such as seafood velouté or beef carpaccio, before continuing with mains of crusted halibut or rack of lamb, but desserts are where the master chocolatier really shows off his skills. We especially recommend the Memories of the Caribbean, a palate-pleasing mix of textures and tropical fruits with a hint of rum. Solid execution, a fairly priced wine list and attentive service have already helped make Cotto a popular choice with the city’s well-heeled diners. The catch? The three-course set menu at £70 is mandatory.