SquareMeal Review of
It’s part of a bigger empire including a cookery school and a restaurant in Bray, but Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi’s solid corner spot retains a “family-run feel”, something that readers value. There’s an easy-going air about the ground-floor bar and coveted pavement tables, where you can eat properly or sip fashionably bitter cocktails as you please. Upstairs in the restaurant, a neat carte includes unusual ideas such as a polenta soufflé with asparagus alongside simply roasted fish and homemade pasta – try fettuccine with Italian sausage and fennel seeds. Pudding might be the famous house tiramisu, now served (inexplicably) in a jar. On Sundays there’s Italian brunch, and while Caffè Caldesi might not be the obvious place for spending big money on wine, there’s enough to keep Italophiles interested. “Good for business lunches” too.