SquareMeal Review of
Bar Termini Centrale
Tony Conigliaro’s Marylebone follow-up to Bar Termini is likewise inspired by those smart buffets common to pre-war grand Italian train stations. Although Centrale lacks the cosy intimacy of the Soho original, it is nevertheless on track to succeed. Put that down to first-class drinks: Martinis, Spritzes and various bottle-aged Negronis that include a bergamot-flavoured twist on the classic recipe; a Campari and grapefruit bitters Bellini named after the film Death In Venice; and coffees (hot and iced) that could indeed awaken Venice’s dead. The suave staff are dressed like barmen in a scene from Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, and serve Soave and Chianti to a soundtrack of 1960s hits from the Sanremo Music Festival. They can also rustle up a selection of Milano-Marylebone snacks and plates such as salt-cod salad; octopus carpaccio with potato salad and sweet red onion sauce; salumi, burrata and artisan cheeses.
Bar Termini Centrale is recommended for