SquareMeal Review of
Andy Bird is the saviour of threatened pubs – The Chesham Arms and The Dartmouth Arms, among others – and this taqueria and bar (run with three industry pals) is his latest gamble. The late-night basement venue has been reconfigured as a neighbourhood sports bar, as frequented by redneck jocks in Nebraska or Wisconsin circa Nixon and Watergate. Punters studiously ignore the razzmatazz of the unfathomable US sporting action relayed to the dive’s big screen. Instead, they wrestle with hardcore liquid contenders such as Mad Sweeney (Calvados, Irish whiskey and caffeine-laden German fizzy-pop, Club-Mate), Hammerstein (Malibu, Tequila and Coke) and Coatbridge Negroni, which adds a swig of irony by swapping vermouth for Buckfast tonic wine. As an alternative, knock back draught Bud and Bud Light (the devil’s dishwater as far as the craft beer brigade is concerned) or sink shots of Silverback and Unnecessary Roughness (a dubious headbanger that we politely refused).