Jamie Oliver’s journey began with a passion for feeding families, bringing simple, healthy, and approachable recipes into homes through his cookbooks and television shows. It’s fitting, then, that his beautifully dressed Catherine Street restaurant turns back to his own upbringing, celebrating the indulgence and nostalgia of British classics.
Inside, it really is a stunner: all ruched lamp shades, deco styling, and enough foliage strung with fairy lights to satisfy even the most Instagram-hungry. On a Saturday evening, it’s filled with parents visiting London-living children, young families after a day out, and Theatreland tourists drawn to the Jamie Oliver brand.
Jamie Oliver Catherine Street trades in comfort, highlighting twists on the familiar. A black pudding Scotch egg, with its rich runny yolk and swipe of prickly mustard mayo, is a case in point: an encouragingly decadent opener, both gastro-pubby and elevated. Salmon gravlax follows suit, supple and blushing, cured with beetroot and vodka, coiled around a mound of horseradish cream.
For mains, there’s a very good Hereford Ribeye - dry-aged for 80 days, robata grilled, and served with a choice of sauce - alongside a chicken and rabbit pie. The latter offers more chicken than rabbit, but its meaty intensity is there, bolstered by a leek and cider sauce. Rich and comforting as it is, it teeters into too-salty territory - though creamy mashed potato, a jugful of extra gravy, and a glass of Verdicchio soon relieve any gripes.
Elsewhere, you’ll find chocolate mousse, thick and indulgent, drizzled with olive oil, and accompanied by a helping of Chantilly. There’s honeycomb, too - a fantastic idea - though with some pieces we detect a telltale metallic-bicarb tang. Blackberry pavlova, meanwhile, comes pepped up with a dollop of lemon curd and crowned with a rocher of blackberry sorbet. It’s the size of a large grapefruit, and though some might miss the fresh fruit, the balance is spot on.
Oliver’s Catherine Street restaurant can feel a little costly, and we note a few missteps. That said, classic British cooking, a convenient location, and efficient service all combine to create something reassuring and welcoming - just what you need amidst the chaos of the West End.