SquareMeal Review of
Nordic noir, hygge, Noma – the world has become obsessed with all things Scandi in recent years, although New York’s two-Michelin-starred Aquavit has been banging the drum since 1987. As expected, its handsome new London outpost showcases all those enviable Nordic design tropes, from superb lighting to close-set, unclothed tables set with Georg Jensen cutlery and staff in Filippa K uniforms. The food is defined by clean flavours, simple presentation and healthy ingredients. A smörgåsbord of small plates might include prawns Skagen (basically prawn cocktail on toast), velvety black pudding sharpened with mouth-puckering lingonberries, little pots of pickled veg, and an excellent version of celeriac rémoulade. To follow, a rich veal cheek set off by dill and salt-baked onions also hits the mark, likewise an ‘Arctic bird’s nest’ pudding involving an ‘egg’ of goats’ cheese parfait nestling in a tangle of tuile strands. This is on-trend cooking served in a beautiful room that epitomises cutting-edge Scandinavian design rather than the homely comfort of hygge.
Pre-theatre menu Two Courses £22 or Three £25
Nordic 2 or 3 course set meal. Please notify of any allergies or dietary requirements.
Maximum of 8 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.
Bottomless weekend brunch: Unlimited wine/bubbles £15/£20
Unlimited bubbles for £20 or house red/white for £15 Available only for the duration of 2 hours seating time per booking (2 and a half hour for tables of 5 and 6).
Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.
Pre and post theatre 2/3 courses £22/£25
Maximum of 10 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.