The team behind Fallow have applied their Midas touch to this chicken-focused pop-up in St James’s. Renting a space practically next door to its original site, FOWL is a sustainable, beak-to-feet concept which aims to use as much of the bird as it can across a series of head-turning dishes.
This venture is decidedly more casual, with a no-bookings policy and laminated menus depicting the word FOWL in red capital letters. On paper, one might imagine something akin to a late-night chicken shop, but FOWL is swish and seductive. The split-level space features an intimate mezzanine and a sleek underlit bar backed by a wall of spirits and wine bottles. It's pretty dark inside too, with sultry, low-level lighting giving strong date night vibes.
Despite its slightly serious setting, the food is playful, fun and surprising in the best possible way. Szechuan honey chicken wings coated in a thick, crunchy batter are served in a takeaway cardboard box - a la chicken shop. Elsewhere, an inspired take on an American corn dog sees a rib-sticking mix of chicken thigh, soft batter and mustard engineered around an actual chicken leg – lest we forget where we are. Its signature fried chicken burger is thickly battered, ultra crisp and slathered in hot cheese sauce. At £18 a pop, you're looking at central London prices, but this is well-executed, high-quality, properly satisfying food that won’t leave you feeling out of pocket.
The real curve ball comes with dessert. A smooth, chicken fat crème caramel served with broken pieces of baklava, and a giant profiterole that’s brought to life, remarkably, by the rich savouriness of chicken skin.
FOWL feels like a fun project for the Fallow team and, even if it’s doesn’t stick around forever, we’d highly recommend popping by while you still can.