Part of an international chain that attracts a matching clientele, restaurateur Costas Spiliadis’s London outpost shows off a spanking-fresh ‘market’ of Mediterranean fish, with around 20 species waiting for diners to make their selection. It’s a justly confident way to sell a menu of sharing dishes, though it’s the only action in a rather plain and pale dining room. From the raw bar, you might choose oysters and clams, tuna sashimi or a Greek ceviche with wild Mediterranean herbs, beans and feta, while the list of classics features enough octopus, calamari and cuttlefish to eat with eight arms. Balance comes from veggie items including a dish of steamed wild and rarely seen greens. Unless you count the fried potatoes served with a small selection of steaks, your doctor is unlikely to disapprove of anything on the menu. Sadly, we can’t say the same about your bank manager.