“Fusion flavours and textures to restore even the most jaded of palates” – that’s how one fan describes the food at this solo venture from ex-Nopi head chef Ramael Scully. Inside, all is cosily shabby-chic, with copper pendant lighting, potted plants and a fascinating glass-fronted pantry, stocked with herbs and spices. A large sharing table and an open kitchen create a communal vibe, but the marble-topped chef’s counter is undoubtedly home to the best seats in the house.
On offer is an intriguing menu that references Scully’s roots and polyglot heritage, while confounding expectations when it comes to mixing and matching ingredients. Nearly all the seasonally changing sharing plates impress, from a tomato and coconut salad with green strawberries (summer in a bowl) to barbecued beef tendons, hidden by a dollop of smoky oyster mayo and served with salty fried tendon puffs for dipping – which are “like nothing else on earth”, according to one convert.
Elsewhere, there’s lusciously fatty pork belly with house-made XO sauce concealing a subtle flash of heat, and an outstanding plate of monkfish rubbed with sambal belacan, a tongue-tingling shrimp paste. Others single out the “audacious” arepa (a Venezuelan cornmeal pancake topped with aubergine relish and bergamot-infused labneh).
To finish, there’s a love-it-or-hate-it dessert of parsnip and coconut ice cream, although we were more impressed by a grapefruit sorbet which was paired up with a scoop of indulgent caramel ice cream – a delightful mix of sweet and sour. Fastidious sourcing, impressively well-informed staff and an unflappable kitchen team swapping jokes while turning out plates of pure wonder all help to make dining at Scully a thrilling and eye-opening experience – we can’t wait to go back.