SquareMeal Review of
This all-day neighbourhood brasserie is the work of TV personality Andi Oliver (Saturday Kitchen and Great British Menu) and business partner Kelly Miles. Andi is also a veteran of London’s supper-club scene and used to be The Birdcage’s landlady. Her first restaurant proper has a classic neighbourhood vibe, thanks to the disarming charm on display from the staff and Andi herself. The bright room of mismatched wooden furniture and pretty bouquets leads to a romantic alfresco courtyard, strung with fairy lights. So far so cute, but the Europe-spanning food is of a different genre: on our visit, we found many of the artfully presented dishes to be rather meagre, such as a sparse scattering of haddock pieces and pea shoots, ambitiously described as a salad. A larger order of crispy squid was more generous, but somewhat soggy and lacking any standout hits of flavour. On the other hand, the sharing dishes we saw pass by looked far heartier, while a simple dish of chicken and chunky biscuits in a rich gravy hit the spot. Fantastically delicate and delicious tarts on the dessert list are provided daily by Andi’s niece, while the small bar delivers cracking cocktails. If the kitchen finds its footing and increases those portions, Andi’s will possess all the components necessary to become a feel-good Stokey bolthole.
Andi’s is recommended for