Sit at the big square marble bar upstairs for a glimpse of the kitchen and banter with the barmen, or go downstairs where there are banquettes and alcoves if you want a bit more privacy; either way, the food and drink will be the same. Expect glamorous cocktails and a fairly hefty wine list to go with a selection of beautifully presented, seriously toothsome Japanese/Peruvian fusion food with plenty of tingle and zing. King crab tacos, set off with lime, chilli and miso is only bettered by the delicate salmon version embellished with cucumber, tomato and mango. There’s also a good selection of tiraditos, sushi and sashimi, including the eponymous uni (sea urchin), some cracking tempura and a roster of robata grills (baby lamb cutlets with miso anticucho, steamed broccoli and cancha corn, say). One warning: although prices look reasonably gentle, portions are morsel-sized, and as the plates multiply, so does the bill.