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SquareMeal Review of The Lavery

Silver Award

As first impressions go, The Lavery certainly has that nailed. Swing right out of South Kensington station and you’ll soon see a jade green flag, fluttering over the whitewashed portico of this elegant Georgian townhouse. The former residence of Irish painter Sir John Lavery has been tastefully modernised, but it remains an architectural marvel, with sky-high ceilings, sweeping, ornately-carved wooden bannisters, and towering windows that flood the space with natural light.

It’s a special space - one that in some ways isn’t ideally suited to a restaurant, but in other ways that’s half the fun. As a room to spend a couple of hours in, there aren’t many better. Those high ceilings combined with massive mirrors give the impression that the dining room is ginormous, and it feels alive with the chatter and clatter of conviviality. Simultaneously, it appears that all the food comes and goes via a single dumbwaiter, which is somewhat of a bottleneck when the room is full.

The food is a perfect match for the destination, with the classicism of the room proving a nice fit for Yohei Furuhashi’s minimal intervention, ingredient-first menus. There’s great joy to be had in tried-and-tested combinations that have always and will always just work, whether that’s a beautiful veal tartare with raw artichoke and ribbons of Parmesan, or salt cod, spooned onto grilled polenta and balanced, precariously, with fresh Iberiko tomatoes.

Furuhashi mostly lets top class ingredients speak for themselves, and the results are excellent. When there is some cooking to be done, the kitchen doesn’t falter - to debone, stuff and ballotine a rabbit leg this beautifully is no mean feat, and the accompanying lentils - from Castellucio, natch - relax gently into a pool of duck juices. Likewise, the pastry skills on show with a slice of loquat and hazelnut tart are elite. The only criticism you could level - aside from the pedestrian pace of the dumbwaiter - is that if you can grill a bit of polenta or source a good bit of veal fillet, you could whip up something in the same ballpark at home. But that’s missing the point isn’t it? You wouldn’t get to be here, sipping an elderflower Negroni in the old home of a celebrated Irish war artist. On pure vibes alone, The Lavery has us smitten.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisine
British, Gluten-free options, Mediterranean, Vegan friendly, Vegetarian friendly
Ambience
Cool, Glamorous, Lively, Luxury, Romantic, Unique, Widely spaced tables
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Counter dining, Dog friendly, Wheelchair access
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Group dining [8+], Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating
Food Hygiene Rating 5 for The Lavery

About

The Lavery is a grand restaurant, cafe and events space on South Kensington's Cromwell Place, serving an elegant Mediterranean menu led by head chef Yohei Furuhashi. 

The Lavery occupies a historic building that was once the home and studio of Sir John Lavery, a famous Irish painter. Nestled within a collection of grade II-listed Georgian townhouses, it's a truly spectacular backdrop for a special meal out, with the building having been restored to its former grandeur. 

Led by creative director Martin Cohen, previously L'Escargot and Rochelle Canteen, the restaurant has a sense of ethereal beauty about it. An understated entrance makes it easy to miss, but once inside you’re greeted with high ceilings, bright white walls, parquet flooring and original covings. The minimal design is complemented by stylish wooden furniture, with curved chairs that tuck neatly into small circular tables.

The kitchen is headed up by Yohei Furuhashi who previously spent nine years at The River Cafe as senior chef, plus a stint as head chef at Toklas. The menu changes every day and focuses on classical, ingredient-led Mediterranean cuisine, spanning snacks and an array of sharing dishes. To start, look out for focaccia with Two Fields olive oil, and whipped salt cod with polenta and red pepper.

Hyper-seasonal small plates might include mozzarella di bufala with pumpkin caponata, celery and pine nuts, while larger plates have been known to feature Venetian duck ragu pappardelle, and wild seabass with Scottish girolles, coco beans and mojo verde. Desserts aren’t to be skipped here, with a Sicilian Verdello lemon tart just one of many contenders for the final dish of the evening.

Sticking to tradition, the wine list features predominantly classic varieties with a few funkier blends, including a wine from Transylvania. You'll also find sparkling, softs, ciders and beers, plus a couple of on-trend 'mini' cocktails as a short but punchy aperetif.

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Menu Highlights

A la carte
Warm Vichyssoise – potato, leek crème fraîche and chive - £13.00
Ratte potato - £7.00
Guinea fowl, prosciutto, Nebbiolo, fragola grape and fennel - £34.00
John Dory, marjoram, caper, lemon with Vesuvio tomato and borlotti - £82.00

FAQs

Do I need to book?

Yes, booking is advised.

This venue also offers

Cafe at The Lavery
Restaurant

Cafe at The Lavery

Details

Get directions to The Lavery Get directions to The Lavery
Location
4 Cromwell Place, South Kensington, London, SW7 2JE

020 8057 1800 020 8057 1800

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue 12:00-15:30
Wed 12:00-15:30
Thu 12:00-15:30
Fri 12:00-15:30
Sat 12:00-15:30
Sun Closed
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 17:30-23:00
Wed 17:30-23:00
Thu 17:30-23:00
Fri 17:30-23:00
Sat 17:30-23:00
Sun Closed

Reviews

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1 Review 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

M Stead

11 April 2025  
Food & Drink 3
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4
Value 3

The Lavery recently opened, and I’d had my eye on it ever since I heard about it. The staff were incredibly welcoming and friendly, and the setting is beautiful — an art gallery downstairs with the restaurant tucked away above. 

The food leans into an “elevated French bistro” style, which is right up my alley. That said, it does place it in the same bracket as Josephine Bouchon and Bouchon Racine, both excellent restaurants with similar pricing. The dishes are well-executed, if a touch pricey — £19 for a single scallop, for example.

While nothing completely blew me away, everything was cooked to a high standard. The lamb neck was a highlight, and I’ll be recommending that dish to anyone heading there.

Drinks-wise, I had a lovely riff on a Pink Lady, and also tried an orange martini, which I’ve already recreated at home! One downside for me — and this is a personal preference — is that they only serve natural wines, which I’m still not quite sold on.

Would I go back? Probably not — there are other spots of a similar calibre I’m keen to try — but I’m glad I went.

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