Guided by owners Caprice Holdings, The Ivy is taking over London one painfully-chic eatery at a time – including this ‘casual’ Wimbledon Village café, where the full menu of modern brasserie classics is offered. Glamorous golden art-deco interiors and seductive lighting transport you back in time. Combine this with a strict no-photos attitude and you’ll be questioning the restaurant’s definition of casual. Nevertheless, prawn cocktail with creamy avocado (reinventing the 1970s starter) tasted wonderfully fresh and tangy, while a decadent truffle arancini was appetisingly cheesy. Portions can be overpowering, with a chicken Milanese (succulent and egg-topped) filling the plate. An equally sizeable sirloin was melt-in-your-mouth tender. To drink, the crowd-pleasing wine list includes a refreshingly fruity Château d’Esclans. Although the intensely rich dishes might make you feel you need a workout afterwards, prices here are reasonable, service impeccable – and you get the chance to act like you’re hiding from the paps.