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As you sweep into the understated kitchen-cum-dining room of Brovey Lair, you might think you’ve been transported to the Caribbean. The view over the terrace & swimming pool to the lush two-acre garden has a plantation prettiness, & it’s less like eating in a restaurant & more like dining at a private dinner party. There’s no choice, but the menu is tailored on booking. Tina Pemberton's imaginative Asian-fusion food focuses on fish & seafood cooked in front of you on a teppan grill. Peerless stir-fried tiger prawns on a bean shoot salad with chilli, mint & coriander & a touch of lime is one element of a menu that runs to an intense portobello mushroom & miso soup, teppan-grilled Cajun-spiced swordfish with a vine tomato, lime & sweet chilli marmalade, & exotic bitter chocolate mocha truffle torte. At £45 for four courses with coffee, it doesn’t come cheap, but you won’t get stung by the wine, which has plenty of choice under £30. Should you be staying in one of the two luxurious garden suites, you can look forward to an extraordinary breakfast. Booking is essential.
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