After building a cult following in Brixton, TEMAKI has left its original home behind, crossing the river for a new outpost in Mayfair. The concept remains rooted in its Californian-inspired handroll format, but this new chapter has been reimagined for a different crowd, with a sleeker setting and a noticeable uplift in pricing to match its new postcode.
The timber-laden dining room leans into Japanese precision and minimalism, with neutral tones and pleasing angular geometry. A 14-seat chef’s counter makes up the focal point of the room, as chefs busy themselves with prep on the other side, passing freshly made rolls directly to diners. The only minor drawback is the height of the counter itself, limiting our view to a couple of craned glimpses, rather than offering the front-row seat to the action that the concept deserves.
The menu still revolves around handrolls, but it's grown with the relocation, folding in favourites from the Brixton days alongside new additions. Fine slices of yellowtail sashimi arrive swimming in a punchy jalapeno sauce and dressed with chunky flakes of sea salt and peppery nasturtium leaves. The fish is insanely fresh, the heat building pleasantly with each bite. Equally impressive are the A4 Wagyu sliders, topped with glossy quail egg yolks that dribble over buttery, melt-in-the-mouth patties.
Crispy rice with spicy trout is equally moreish: the fish mixed through with Kewpie mayo and chilli for the ultimate one-bite wonder, the gentle kick of the trout balanced perfectly by the satisfying crunch beneath. We could easily eat it over and over. Prawn tempura, served heads and tails intact, arrives in a crisp, golden batter, best enjoyed dipped into the accompanying roe-studded mayonnaise.
The handrolls, however, are undoubtedly the main event. Prepared to order, each arrives wrapped in crisp nori, tightly packed with everything from a pleasingly classic salmon and avocado roll to the site’s signature ‘TEMAKI’ roll. The latter is particularly indulgent, a rich combination of fatty otoro and lean akami cuts, finished with a generous dollop of caviar, for an added burst of salinity. At £25 a pop, they’re not cheap, especially for something that’s gone within four bites, no matter how delicious.
TEMAKI's move to Mayfair may have elevated both the setting and the bill, but the quality remains as strong as ever. Order wisely, and it’s worth every bite.