What happens when you combine Michelin-starred precision with pizza? We’re about to find out. Tom Kemble earned a star as head chef of Bonhams in Mayfair, but now he’s slinging pizza dough under a London Bridge railway arch.
Although relatively tucked away, Spring Street’s outdoor seating enjoys plenty of evening rays, while the inside boasts a glowing pizza oven, bright orange accents and sleek rattan chairs. Between the Shard looming in the distance and the murmur of trains overhead, it’s hard to imagine a more quintessential London setting than this. A sophisticated Negroni and a well-balanced gilda, complete with a chunky anchovy and grape-like olives, are promising signs of the food to come.
‘London-style’ pizza has been gaining traction for a while, referring to a new-wave style that sits somewhere between a New York slice and a Neapolitan. It might sound gimmicky, but those that do it well have quickly gained cult status and in one of the most dynamic food scenes in the world, why shouldn’t London carve out its own slice? Spring Street leans closer to the New York end of the scale, with a sturdy base and satisfying crunch. That said, there’s a hint of Italian craftsmanship in the chewy crust, which is down to their complex, pre-fermented dough recipe.
That’s all very well, but does Spring Street deliver? While pepperoni can sometimes be a recipe for a greasy mess, Spring Street’s ‘New Yorker’ with pepperoni and hot honey defies the laws of science, staying crispy and balanced. The ’nduja and burrata pizza is a must-order too, with crumbled sausage complemented by lightly spicy guindilla peppers and cooling dollops of burrata.
A steel coupe of vanilla soft serve injects some light-hearted fun into the evening, with a drizzle of olive oil transforming it into something more sophisticated. It takes your taste buds a moment to adjust but once they do, you can’t put your spoon down.
Call it London-style, call it a New York slice - either way, Spring Street Pizza is right up there with some of the best in the city.