For more than 20 years, Sketch has led a cohort of restaurants in the capital where visuals are as integral to the experience as the food. The Gallery's previous bubble gum-pink facade became such an iconic part of London’s dining scene that the team kept it for eight years rather than the originally planned two. Reinventing itself away from those colour-drenched, candy pink walls was always going to be a hard task, but two years ago it ushered in a brand-new golden era – literally – with a complete transformation.
Sketch’s latest installation is the work of artists Yinka Shonibare and India Mahdavi, who have reimaged the space in an immersive mixture of mellow yellow tones and majestic golds. The impact of its canary yellow banquets, copper-toned walls and lengthy bronze bar is dazzling, and compounded by the vastness of the Grade II-listed room, with its double-height ceilings and domed glass roof. Even the most ardent Instagrammable restaurant sceptics would have a hard time not being bowled over by the space. In truth, there’s nothing else like it in the capital.
Sketch certainly ticks the style box with aplomb, but underneath the loud theatricality of its exterior lies a restaurant with a deep understanding of superb hospitality. Staff are friendly and faultless in their duties, gliding around the dining room with well-rehearsed ease and advising on its unique, experimental menus.
Dishes carry the same level of attention to visuals as the interiors. A pretty salad layering avocado, tomato and a miso mayonnaise dressing is dusted in a layer of pink freeze fried raspberries, while a perfectly formed beef tartare, layered with smoked eel and a Caesar sauce, comes with an iced Bloody Mary chaser. These plates look the part, but not everything hits the mark flavour wise, with especially rich dishes occasionally lacking the contrast needed to balance them out.
Generous portions all round ensure you feel fed for the price though, and desserts are a strong suit, inclusing a spherical chocolate mousse served with chocolate-covered salted peanut ice cream, inspired by the nostalgic flavours of a Snickers bar.
Experience might come before food at this enduringly fashionable spot, but when all is said and done, eating at Sketch is extraordinarily good fun.