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The dark basement setting & chillout tunes suggest that Seventeen is more of an evening haunt than a lunchtime spot. Carved wooden screens, blue lighting & black lacquer furniture don’t
deliver quite the glamour of high-rolling Hakkasan, but at least they’re an improvement on the dated interiors of most Queensway Chinese eateries. Best bets on the menu are the lip-numbingly
authentic Szechuan specialities, so if you can take a dose of chilli & have an appetite for offal, the blisteringly hot seafood soup, griddled intestines or dry-fried green beans with minced
pork won’t disappoint. Dung po pork (a rich, savoury stew from Hangzhou province), is also worth ordering, but other items – especially mainstream Cantonese staples such as sweet & sour chicken
– get a lukewarm reception from most readers.
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