Wild Honey St James

British, French, Modern European·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Wild Honey St James

Silver Award

With Arbutus and Wild Honey Mayfair, Anthony Demetre was once at the forefront of London’s casual fine dining movement. It was all about creative food at fair prices, so there’s a touch of irony that 15 years later, Michelin-starred Wild Honey finds itself on the opposite end of the spectrum, settled inside the swanky Sofitel St James Hotel.

Black cabs and red buses bustle up and down outside, but beyond Wild Honey’s revolving door you’ll find nothing but a gentle murmur of conversation. The interiors are smart, if a little staid - marble table tops, chestnut leather and dark, polished wood all play into the refined and slightly serious feel of the space.

We kick things off with a negroni - a cocktail Demetre takes very seriously. Wild Honey makes its own vermouth in-house and it is without doubt one of the best negroni’s we’ve ever had - one ice cube to limit dilution and a little hit of orange zest.

If Demetre’s cooking must exist in a hotel to exist in London at all, we’ll take it, because it remains just as thrilling as it ever has been. A wafer-thin tartlet of wild mushrooms arrives under a blanket of hazelnut sabayon. There’s an Orkney scallop - crowned with a golden maillard crust - alongside a silky Jerusalem artichoke puree and the fruity kick of sansho pepper. Mains continue the theme of expert cookery and smart flavour combinations - rare fallow venison, walnut, cocoa and kumquat sounds an ingredient too far but it really works, with clean citrus cutting through all the richness. We finish with a tarte tatin - a dessert that only reaches its majestic peak when the caramel is taken right to the precipice. It’s superb, but by this point we’re not surprised.

Here’s the kicker though. Mains are pushing £40, starters are up to £25. That tarte tatin? £24 - admittedly, for two to four people. Dining at Wild Honey is no drop in the ocean but there’s no questioning the faultless food.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
British, French, Modern European
Ambience
Fine dining, Glamorous, Luxury, Quiet conversation, Unique
Other Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
All day dining, Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegan options, Vegetarian options
People
Dates, Group dining [8+], Special occasions

About Wild Honey St James

Following huge success with Arbutus and the original Wild Honey, Anthony Demetre has taken his acclaimed restaurant from Mayfair to St James's, where it now resides in the Sofital St James Hotel. Wild Honey received rave reviews during its time in Mayfair, and the St James's iteration has been similarly well received, being awarded a Michelin star in 2022.

Demetre is a chef with a wealth of experience alongside luminaries like Gary Rhodes, Pierre Koffmann and Bruno Loubet, and at Wild Honey St James his menu combines classic French techniques with the finest British seasonal produce. As well as sticking with seasonal British produce whenever possible, Wild Honey has a sustainable mentality - the kitchen operates in a nose to tail fashion, making sure to use every part of an ingredient to lower wastage. 

There are a number of menus available at Wild Honey, catering to a variety of crowds. As well as the lunch and dinner a la cartes, Wild Honey also offers an evening tasting menu of eight courses with an optional wine flight. If you make it in the early evening you'll find a very reasonable pre-theatre menu on offer too, which features some of the dishes on the a la carte. Dishes on the menu include grilled Galician octopus with sweet peppers and tempura of monk’s beard, halibut, grilled leeks, Shetland mussel jam and herb vinaigrette, and Delica squash with burrata, grilled young Swiss chard and candied walnuts. 

As per the name, Wild Honey also has its own wild honey, courtesy of a few hives on the roof of the hotel, as well as local providers Bermondsey Street Bees. Wild honey features in a number of dishes, including a Welsh lamb, roast sand carrot, January king cabbage and honey dish, and the wild honey ice cream with honeycomb and lemon madeleines.

As you'd expect for this sort of hotel establishment, the wine list is also extensive and varied, with a huge range of wines by bottle and by the glass.

 

This venue also offers

Location

8 Pall Mall, St. James's, London, SW1Y 5NG

020 7968 2900

Website

Opening Times

Breakfast
Mon 06:30-10:30
Tue 06:30-10:30
Wed 06:30-10:30
Thu 06:30-10:30
Fri 06:30-10:30
Sat 07:00-11:00
Sun 07:00-11:00
Lunch
Mon 12:00-14:30
Tue 12:00-14:30
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri 12:00-14:30
Sat 12:30-14:30
Sun 12:30-14:30
Afternoon
Mon 14:30-16:30
Tue 14:30-16:30
Wed 14:30-16:30
Thu 14:30-16:30
Fri 14:30-16:30
Sat 14:30-16:30
Sun 12:30-17:00
Dinner
Mon 17:00-22:30
Tue 17:00-22:30
Wed 17:00-22:30
Thu 17:00-22:30
Fri 17:00-22:30
Sat 17:00-22:30
Sun 17:00-21:30

Reviews

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33 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Oliver G

01 April 2022  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
Wild Honey Best for Events

I persnally like wild honey for

 events serivces  

where we can get good meal to eat and almost near to our corporate office.

Anon

28 January 2020  
Food & Drink 2.5
Service 4
Atmosphere 2
Value 2.5
a shadow of its original self

Wild Honey is such a disappointment. The Mayfair residence was one of my favourite restaurants in London, so i was very much looking forward to visiting the new venue. It’s sadly not a shade of the old premises. Food lacked the finesse, originality and invention. Whoever is in the kitchens is not a shadow of the old team. It feels like Anthony Demetre taken the Sofitel cheque and doesn’t really care. The place was empty..the old venue was always full. Don’t kid yourself, the clientele know. It’s off my list. Not recommended. Such a shame.

Fraser M

24 August 2019   - Verified Diner
Food & Drink 4
Service 3
Atmosphere 1
Value 2
Such a shame

We used to love the old venue.   It was intimate and the staff were professional and frendly.   The new location is too big and attached to a hotel and the atmosphere is zero.    The food is still of good quality but you still feel like you are just sitting in a regular hotel resurant which is a shame.

Kbok

28 July 2019  
Wild honey

sorry but the new restaurant does not compare to old wouldn’t go again 

 

 

Andy R

26 July 2019  
Just emerging in its new location, Delmetre's food is very good and given it's location, reasonable. Staff trying hard.

Pat S

26 July 2019  
Excellent food, service and location.

Amanda N

08 July 2019  
I've only been here twice and have to admit to it being about 10 years apart. I had fond memories of the first time and the second reinforced it as somewhere not easily forgotten. The food was fabulous - tasty, presented beautifully and the whole experience was just spot on. It's not cheap, but worth every penny!

Alasdair S

05 April 2019  
Continues to deliver year on year.

Wendy M

23 August 2014  
Food & Drink 3.5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4
I'd go along with Square Meal overview having had 3 good meals with decent wine. Delicate turbot was wonderful and soft veal noteworthy too. Food prepared with care and beautifully presented, served by friendly people, together with a changing menu makes it a good repeat venue for us.

Kim T

09 April 2014  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4
Atmosphere 3.5
Value 4.5
First visit to this restaurant and first impressions were great. Service was quick, food was excellent and had the set menu. Great venue for a quick business / social lunch as having the set menu we were informed we would be served quickly and the staff were true to their word. Would definitely visit again.
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