Our meal here provided further evidence, if any were needed, of the failure of Michelin by Bookatable, and its inspectors, to recognise that its criteria for the top award on its scale of merit are not in tune with the reasons why paying customers favour some restaurants rather than others. Compared with the place we had dined at a week before, a 3-star entertainment centre in Bray, RNO was far superior from several points of view. Indeed, one factor being in fact the lovely view of the North Cornwall coast, but, equally, we had front of house staff who hadn’t needed to learn a script, local, fresh ingredients presented in a recognisable way and combined and balanced in unmatchable and inventive fashion, and in suitably sized portions, and some excellent Coravin by-the-glass wine selections, altogether making for an outstanding dining experience. Delightful canapés in the form of tasty crab scones and light as a feather cheese straws were followed by mouthwatering raw scallops with a citrus dressing, horseradish mayo and pink grapefruit, and fresh mackerel cured for 20 minutes cleverly contrasted with apple and with a chilli dressing kicking through at the end. John Dory is not everyone’s favourite, but in Nathan Outlaw’s version, coupled with a superb saffron aioli and roasted and pickled yellow kohlrabi, it exhibits the best in firm fleshiness. Cod, too, can be ho-hum unless treated with flair, and here it is salted for just 20 minutes, enough to remove excess liquid and to add tasty seasoning, and served with a sensational scampi tail and lobster mix and lobster sauce, resulting in a rich extravagance rarely found in UK restaurants. Not to be outdone, the king of fish, turbot, climaxed the piscine pageant with its hazelnut topping, deliciously syrupy red wine dressing, very mild roasted pickled onions and double-podded beans. Ironically, after our experience with someone else’s childhood memory experiments, the perfect strawberry ice cream crumble sandwich with added gooseberry and elderflower both stirred the tastebuds and the recollections and left us once more ready to share our memories of this meal with the fine dining world.