“The ultimate in classy fish cuisine” and “an all-time favourite”, Nathan Outlaw’s regularly proves why it’s up there with the very best in the business. Michelin’s definition of a two-star establishment ‘as excellent cooking that is worth a detour’ couldn’t be better exemplified than this dining room, where the restaurant’s seafront setting and fabulous views of the north Cornish coast resonate with the “sounds of satisfaction” coming from each and every table – testament to the sheer virtuosity of Outlaw’s cooking and his sympathetic approach to super-fresh Cornish seafood.
Diners are offered just one tasting menu (lunch and dinner), but the balance, quality and invention are staggering – just consider a dish of sublime brill (“lightly cured by the master himself”) decorated with peas and mint.
Outlaw also gives more humble species their full due: herrings are pickled and served with cucumber and seaweed; cod is lifted to “a whole new dimension”, lightly salted and matched with cuttlefish in red wine; lemon sole fillets are presented as a pair (one breadcrumbed, the other ‘au naturel’) with the simplest of accompaniments including purple sprouting broccoli and spring watercress.
Finally, there are two “highly developed” desserts – perhaps a fresh-tasting rhubarb and custard ice cream ‘sandwich’ (“a delight to behold”) followed by a St Clement’s meringue pie with the flavours of oranges and lemons “ringing out”.
All in all, this is “fish like you’ve never had before”, while the beautifully calibrated displays are backed by studiously matched wines, “expertly chosen by one of the most knowledgeable sommeliers in the country”. Service, meanwhile, cleverly balances sociability with impressive expertise while remaining “perfect and unstuffy” – and if you book a seat at the Kitchen Bar right in the middle of action, you’ll get to see the chefs up close and personal.
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw is a tour de force – “a truly outstanding dining experience, and one to treasure.”