Provenance is king at this chic little hotel restaurant overlooking the Fowey estuary, where locally sourced & foraged ingredients are allowed to shine in unfussy modern European dishes. Plump oysters are farmed just upstream, & fishing boats deliver the day’s catch direct to the alfresco grill in summer. Start with linguine & green beans in nettle & walnut pesto or crispy duck salad punctuated by bursts of fresh mint. To follow, flappingly fresh lemon sole is dressed with a classic lemon & caper beurre noisette, while herb-crusted salmon comes with a delicate stew of mussels, crab & wild garlic. Desserts such as velvety chocolate mousse with fennel & honey brittle show some inventive touches, & the short wine list is a varied selection gleaned from reliable producers. In keeping with the hotel’s design, the restaurant’s decor is comfortably neutral, with smiling service adding to the boutique charm.
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