SquareMeal Review of Park Chinois
Brace yourself for some big-money special-occasion dining at this opulent OTT take on a 1930s Shanghai speakeasy, where swathes of red velvet, sultry lighting, ostentatious trappings and nightly live music provide the backdrop for some “absolutely stunning” Chinese cooking presented in western-style courses.
At lunchtime, we suggest exploring the line-up of superior dim sum, which runs the gamut from steamed Japanese squash and pine nut dumplings or sea bass and lardo rolls to stir-fried XO mooli cake with snow crab and Chinese chive or Wagyu beef and bamboo charcoal bao. There’s nothing workaday about this “exquisite” selection.
Our top picks from the equally progressive carte range from the showpiece ‘duck de Chine’ (roasted-to-order Peking duck accompanied by pancakes, baby cucumber, shredded leeks and duck sauce) to crispy turbot and crab with dried scallop broth – although nothing can trump the stunning Park ‘carbonara’, an extraordinary twist on the Italian pasta classic involving udon noodles, 65-degree organic egg, guanciale and sea urchin.
It’s also worth saving room for some equally show-stopping European-style desserts such as a glitzy take on lemon meringue pie topped with gold leaf or the luscious nougat glacé embellished with pain d’epice, lime sauce, yoghurt espuma, candied cherry and cedar.
“Unbelievable” service matches the “beautifully refined atmosphere”, the drinks list includes some rare Chinese teas as well as plenty of big-ticket wines, and there are more risqué thrills to be had in the decadent Wave Bar & Club Chinois downstairs.
About Park Chinois
Prepare to step out of modern-day Mayfair and into Golden Age Shanghai as the concierge at Park Chinois welcomes you with a tip of a hat. This glamorous spot is dedicated to celebrating the romance and etiquette of yesteryear, alongside the thrills and luxury of the present. Park Chinois, which comprises the elegant Salon de Chine and indulgent Club Chinois, is a unique dining experience popular with the well-to-do, so have your credit card at the ready.
The lavish décor within takes inspiration from a 1930s Shanghai speakeasy, so prepare to be ensconced in red velvet upholstery and flashy frills, as you take in one of the venue’s live shows and get acquainted with some seriously special Chinese cooking.
There’s a menu for every occasion at Park Chinois, from light lunches to long, luxurious dinners. For an all-round taste of what’s on offer, try the two- or three-course set lunch menu. The restaurant’s more expensive dishes won’t feature, but you’ll still get to try the likes of bang bang chicken salad, Cantonese roast duck with Champagne and orange sauce, and an 85% chocolate fondant.
For those looking to make a serious dent in their bank accounts though, the sky is the limit. You’ll find rare caviars, prime cuts of meat including Japanese Hida Wagyu rib-eye, premium fish and shellfish, and other dishes containing the likes of foie gras, black truffle and venison.
Exquisitely-crafted desserts are a must for the sweet-toothed as they include creations such as the Granny Smith apple cheesecake served with vanilla and apple cream, apple gel and crumble, and a decadent dark chocolate fondant made with sweetcorn and Rémy Martin Cognac Sauce and decorated with gold leaf. Drinks are similarly glamorous whether you opt for a cocktail, a glass of Champagne or a pot of rare Japanese tea.