NIJU

Positioned just off the south east corner of Berkeley Square, NIJU couldn’t ask for a better location. This stately townhouse has had a change of direction of late, transitioning from thoroughly British 20 Berkeley to a more modern Japanese concept. Whatever the reasons, they must be good - we rather liked 20 Berkeley, which seemed a welcome addition to this thoroughly gentrified part of town.

Though the restaurant has changed, the bar remains the same - Nipperkin sits on the ground floor and frankly, is a must-visit if you’re coming to NIJU. One of London’s most outstanding cocktail lists and uniquely charming drinking dens is just about the perfect place to wet your whistle before heading into dinner.

Therein, though, lies some of the difficulty. Nipperkin and 20 Berkeley felt as one, designed together and singing from the same hymn sheet, but it’s hard to see the thread that runs between Nipperkin and NIJU. Though NIJU itself is very nicely designed - moody and atmospheric, with pleasing angular geometry - it has the feeling of a restaurant with a bit of an identity crisis.

Before we go any further, we should say, there’s little not to like when it comes to the food. There’s some inventive, delicious cooking all across the menu, whether it’s a beautiful grilled tranche of turbot in a glossy miso and tomato sauce, or a range of excellent (if obviously expensive) nigiri and sashimi. It’s a tough menu to decrypt though, and would perhaps be better as a tasting menu than an a la carte. There are snacks and small dishes, a range of sushi options, then larger ‘katei ryori’ dishes (translating as ‘home cooked food from the heart’). Then there are a variety of beef cuts, cooked on a konro grill and served with a range of unfamiliar condiments. Then, of course, sides, and desserts. It’s a lot, and aside from the Japanese influence, it’s hard to see how it all hangs together.

The prices are as spicy as you’d expect in this part of town, although it must be said, considerably cheaper if you steer clear of the Wagyu beef. There’s the promise of a good restaurant at the heart of NIJU - some solid, tasty cooking, lovely staff and a great venue - but something is missing in the concept that makes it hard to truly love.

NIJU is a Japanese restaurant and sushi bar specialising in home-inspired dishes, created by Michelin-starred chef Endo Kazutoshi and Creative Restaurant Group. Executive chef Chris Golding and head sushi chef David Bury have teamed up with Kazutoshi to restyle this Mayfair townhouse, which was previously the home of well-regarded modern British restaurant 20 Berkeley.

NIJU is more akin to Kazutoshi’s eponymous sushi restaurant, Endo, though it offers a much wider choice of a la carte dishes, focused around the concept of ‘Katei Ryori’ - a Japanese tradition which can be translated to ‘cooking from the heart’.

In true Mayfair fashion, this glamorous restaurant greets its guests with sleek wooden interiors, minimalist decoration and warm lighting announcing what’s to come - a simple, elegant culinary experience.

At NIJU, Endo lends his expertise as a third generation sushi master to this high end dining experience. The menu focuses on sushi and sashimi, with some traditional grilled beef options as well, with all beef aged in-house. Dishes such as the fried lamb cutlets or the house- aged wagyu are all cooked on a Konro grill using a special charcoal blend for perfect tasting meat.

There are other traditional Japanese dishes on the menu too, including Japanese shokupan milk bread, and seasonal dishes like asparagus with wild garlic veloute, and grilled aubergine with white sesame dressing.

For drinks, the restaurant does not veer away from attention to detail. A full bar downstairs supplies the beverages. Here, sparkling drinks shine. Boasting a large list of Champagnes, sparkling English whites and sake, NIJU focuses on light sophisticated drinks to accompany the meal.