The original Angelina made waves when it launched its ambitious Japanese-Italian tasting menu. After some initial bafflement, Angelina proved a point emphatically - this particular fusion of cuisines was more than a gimmick. In fact, the two cuisines live together in such symbiotic happiness that a second location - Osteria Angelina - has opened in Spitalfields’ stylish Norton Folgate district.
Norton Folgate itself has been beautifully redeveloped. The Victorian industrial bones remain, now elevated by cobbled streets, granite curbs, and pointed brick walls. Through two enormous front windows, the first glimpse of Osteria’s magic is a dedicated pasta kitchen, where a chef pipes filling into metres of agnolotti, scattering flour and slicing pasta with balletic grace.
Inside, Osteria Angelina is buzzing. Tables are tightly packed, and the staff clearly revel in the theatre - flourishing the cloches from smoked Negronis and gliding between tables with plates of pasta and slabs of nori focaccia. The open kitchen hums with energy, chefs moving in sync from station to pass, where there are rarely fewer than eight plates ready to go. This is a serious, well-oiled operation.
As for the food, Osteria Angelina is putting out some of the most distinct, delicious cooking in London. The milk bread with kumquat and burnt honey butter might be the most incredible bread we’ve ever eaten - butter melting into pillowy bread, with jammy kumquat as the perfect foil. Pasta dishes are magnificent: ultra-wide fazzoletti are tossed in a rich duck ragu, whilst tortellini come packed with cheesy, truffly filling, lifted by little strips of braised kombu. A charcoal-grilled pork chop arrives thick and juicy, pink at the centre and worth every penny of its £30 price tag. Then there’s the magic of luxurious crudo plates, a clever semi-frozen tomato salad, and outstanding cocktails.
Osteria Angelina could easily rely on its sultry looks and concept, but it doesn’t. This is the real deal - intelligent, satisfying, and downright delicious. It’s already one of London’s essential dining destinations.