We test drive Soho’s new meatball restaurant Balls & Company. Was it golden balls or a balls-up? Read on to find out…
If nothing will do but a meatball, then this single-minded restaurant from Australian Masterchef finalist Bonny Porter will be right up your (Greek) street: the short menu features five meatball and four sauce choices and sides of chips, spaghetti, mash and vegetables.
Our Wagyu balls with tomato sauce (above) were carefully cooked and tender, while plump pork balls combined with ricotta, basil and sage and studded with pine nuts were a highlight, paired with a tangy and thick romesco sauce. An additional specials menu changes at least once a day (on our visit it included mac ‘n’ cheese arancini), the succinct wine list spans the globe and the two good value cocktails we sampled (including Company Ice Tea with agave and red wine) were delicious – this deserves to become a local secret-style basement bar.
Balls & Company isn’t exactly groundbreaking but you can expect a light, good-value meal in a relaxing setting: the neutral decor and snug dimensions of the dining room are a perfect fit for the casual, down-to-earth approach of the place.
This article was published 14 July 2015