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An unprepossessing home-from-home for expats from the Caucasus, this “lightless, scruffy basement” looks like it has been transported whole from the Easter Bloc. There’s nothing fancy here and service is endearingly unpolished, but the gutsy cooking more than makes up for any decorative austerity. The kitchen’s heart is in Georgia, and the menu takes no prisoners: come here for wholesome soups, baked-to-order mjadi (cornbread), peasant stews, Georgian ‘pizzas’ and high-protein mtsvadi (kebabs), as well as specialities such as badrijani (roasted aubergines with walnut sauce and spices), khinkali (savoury dumplings) and tsiplyonok tabaka (dry-roast chicken with mashed potatoes). For afters, don’t miss the special Mimino cake made with condensed milk and cocoa. Fizzy green lemonade (tarhun) should satisfy the abstainers, while the line-up of esoteric Georgian wines makes boozing here a fascinating game of chance. Live music on Saturday nights.
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