Step through the barriers at Kensington Olympia station and you’re met instantly by Pillar Hall’s looming red brick facade. Previously an exhibition centre, the historic venue has hosted many famous faces over the years – Vivienne Westwood, Jimi Hendrix and Pink Floyd to name a few – and now, following a rather expensive regeneration (it includes the word ‘billion’), former D&D boss Des Gunewardena has brought it back to life, starting with Idalia.
This spectacular restaurant is the first of many scheduled to open within the 30,000 sq ft hall, and the team have pulled out the stops for the first reveal, styling the space on what looks like an old Italian mansion. We take a seat and ogle at some of its most impressive features: gold and cream moulded ceilings, huge Corinthian columns, trailing foliage and climbing plants in every corner. But the main focal point is a circular bar in the middle of the room, with luminous orange panels that cast the space in a golden glow. This is opulence on steroids, a beacon of grandeur ensconced in stone and marble, and yet behind the look-at-me energy are flashes of warmth and playfulness.
Take the menu, which on the outset looks like modern British cooking pimped with luxurious ingredients, but actually flits across the globe in lots of clever ways. Chermoula marinated pork chops and turbot with Shichimi Togarashi butter sit side by side, while our choice - Herdwick lamb cutlets in a well-honed jus - comes with ricotta-stuffed courgette flowers for a seasonal flourish. A ball of burrata with a lovely lovage pesto feels instantly refreshed, and the bread basket is worth ordering just for the focaccia, arriving in a plume of good olive oil and rosemary.
To finish, tiramisu gets a theatrical upgrade. This one is served in a teacup, with a thin chocolate disk and a canopy of faux flowers, plus a thick chocolate sauce served from a post box-red mocha pot.
A meal at Idalia starts and ends with spectacle, but behind the ‘gram-worthy theatrics is a restaurant with real creativity at its heart. It’s not a casual spot, but for special occasion dining, we’d send you here in a heartbeat.