MARCUS

British·
££££
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Gold Award
·

MARCUS
MARCUS
MARCUS
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SquareMeal Review of MARCUS

Gold Award

The restaurant of a celebrity chef can bring a degree of hesitation with it; will it live up to the hype, or will expectations be left in tatters? MARCUS, we’re pleased to report, delivers on every level for an evening of pure indulgence. The key perhaps lies in the chef’s presence in the kitchen each week, when he works a regular service (apparently demanding silence to allow for complete concentration).

As a master of classic French cookery, you might expect Marcus Wareing’s eponymous restaurant to stick to tried-and-tested combinations, but the Michelin-starred chef plays with international influences to produce intricate and interesting plates of food that balance flavours and textures with precision.

A crab parfait came perfectly seasoned, lifted by the flavour of lemongrass and accompanied with a sweet, fragrant satay sauce while fat, sweet scallops were dressed with a sticky sauce of bone marrow and served with a Scandinavian-style smoked cod roe and crisped kale.

Mains of perfectly pink duck breast and cod with octopus were almost outshone by a side order of some stunning spuds. Gnarled and crisp on the outside, these torn hunks of potatoes were fluffy on the inside and cooked in beef fat for a nostalgic roast dinner flavour and served with sour cream and truffle.

Given that this is no place for restraint, dessert and drinks aren’t to be missed. The wine list is, as might be expected, a robust yet approachable list of bottles that ranges from drinks by the glass through to eye-wateringly expensive Champagnes. For pudding, the tarte Tatin comes highly recommended by the gracious hosts who carefully look after each guest. Served tableside and sliced up between two, it seduces with the rich caramel notes of near-burned sugar.

There’s no happier sound than the happy hum of diners and in the low-lit comfortable space at MARCUS, such a noise fills the room. Everything about the experience is for the pleasure of guests, which is exemplified in the range of menu options on offer; from tasting and set menus to à la carte options, this is flexible fine dining.

About MARCUS

A towering room of mahogany panels, gleaming architrave, deep-pile carpets and plush, peppermint-leather seating attended by battalions of suited staff, MARCUS (the restaurant) is as imposing as Mr Wareing’s culinary reputation – and “totally worth it”, according to one of its many fans.  

Readers are rightly enamoured of the “stunning food” and “sensational, seasonal dishes” on offer in this patrician hotel dining room, although current chef-patrons Mark and Shauna Froydenlund (long-serving Wareing alumni) are starting to make their mark on proceedings with many new ideas fleshing out the already fascinating repertoire.  

One reader’s “excellent lunch taster menu” yielded sourdough crumpets with cockle butter, turf-smoked trout with wild leek and sorrel oil, then slow-cooked rib of beef with braised onions and wild garlic, all culminating in Mr Wareing’s genre-defining Lancashire custard tart complete with a perfect wobble.

The fuller tasting menu is similarly appealing and eminently approachable, as in rack, loin and confit belly of Herdwick lamb with heritage beetroot and girolles or a pairing of Dorset snails, turbot and razor clams with Delica pumpkin – typical of the kitchen’s tried-and-tested take on cracking produce. To finish, there might be a salted milk chocolate ‘aero’ with honeycomb or a wizard take on peaches and cream presented, cheekily, in an open tin can.  

Dining at MARCUS is undoubtedly a top-end experience designed to impress, although staff are nonetheless discreet and attentive, creating a “relaxed atmosphere” that “makes you feel nothing can go wrong in the world”. A thick wine list excels when it comes to big-name producers, while pairings show the sommeliers at their passionate best.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
British
Ambience
Fine dining, Glamorous, Luxury, Quiet conversation, Romantic, Traditional, Widely spaced tables
Other Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Chef’s table, Gluten-free options, Vegan options, Vegetarian options, Wheelchair access
People
Birthdays, Celebrations, Celeb-spotting, Dates, Group dining [8+], Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

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Private Group Dining

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Location for MARCUS

The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Belgravia, London, SW1X 7RL

020 7235 1200

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri Closed
Sat Closed
Sun 12:00-16:00
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 17:00-20:30
Thu 17:00-20:30
Fri Closed
Sat Closed
Sun Closed
All day
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri 12:00-20:30
Sat 12:00-20:30
Sun Closed

Reviews of MARCUS

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18 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anne B

26 July 2019  
The staff are so friendly - and the food excellent.

Paul H

26 July 2019  
Excellent service, good food.

Dom B

08 July 2019  
Always really good.

Angela D

08 July 2019  
We had the 5 course set menu at Marcus and the whole meal was a culinary treat from start to finish. Each course was delivered with an explanation of the ingredients and a theatrical placement on the table. The dishes themselves are plated in a beautiful contemporary style, and tasted as good as they looked. My one gripe with the restaurant is that the price of the wines are extortionate. There are no 'entry-level' wine which may put people off ordering anything. If there were a few bottles at the £30 range then I'm sure the restaurant would still be making money without the customers breaking the bank!

Rakesh C

08 July 2019  
Excellent food and service set in wonderful surroundings.

Bethany L

28 June 2019  
An experience, rather than a dinner. My favourite restaurant and meal ever. The restaurant its self is beautiful. The Gosset X Marcus champagne is also absolutely brilliant, and even better knowing to know it was something overseen by Marcus himself.

Pa C

Is it worth the price
29 March 2019  

This was probably the most expensive meal I've ever had, and by that definition alone it should have been the best.

The food is terrific and the service is very good but the overiding feeling was that I was in a London hotel with a load of tourists. I understand the restaurant cant control this sort of thing, but in general this was not a cool night out in a London hotspot.

I preferred the dining room when it was The Petreus. Unfortunately they've cut it in half to accommodate some sort of tea room which you have to walk through to get to the main restauarant. The clientele is a mixture of obnoxious rich people (who were demanding to be let in without a reservation when I arrived) and out of towners. The decor in the restaurant is hideous; hotel carpet and frosted glass are not a good look.

I wish I could talk about the food more which was very good, and the wine pairing was excellent.

My overiding memory though was the price tag and the fact that I dont want to be in London on a night with rude rich people and tourists.

Sorry Marcus, the food is right but the decor and ambience are not. I should have flown somewhere warm in Europe, had dinner by the beach, stayed the night and still come back with change in my pocket.

 

Food & Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Neville D

27 June 2018  
Food OK. Ambiance stilted. Service poor: generally snotty; merciless up-selling on wine: "I would like a Red Burgundy at around £100" - first suggestion £250!!

Neil S

27 June 2018  
Stunning food, amazing service.

Phil C

27 June 2018  
Outstanding fine dining.

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