Wild Izakaya

Set on Old Jewry, Wild Izakaya pulls in the City crowd for blowout lunches and client dinners, but this moody Japanese spot from the team behind Goodman, Wild, Pinna and Krokodilos is well worth a trip to Bank in its own right.

Things kick off well as you head upstairs into a room buzzing with energy. Chefs in headbands and sage-green kimonos glide behind polished wooden counters, slicing sashimi and shaping nigiri to order. Most of the space is given over to three long counters, with a handful of tables off to the side, but the counter seats are where you want to be, thanks to comfy stools and a front-row view of the action.

The menu covers plenty of ground. There’s a strong line-up of sushi and sashimi, plus maki rolls and hand roll temaki, alongside crispy fried snacks, grilled skewers, steamed dishes and bigger rice plates.

Still, sushi is the main event. Fish quality is excellent across the board, from sweet, pearlescent scallop to rich, fatty tuna belly otoro draped over rice. Hand rolls are excellent too, especially one packed with thick-cut slices of deep red tuna akami.

There’s plenty worth ordering beyond the raw stuff: karaage chicken comes light and crunchy; agedashi tofu is delicately set in clear dashi; and hefty Wagyu skewers bring a hit of smoke and beefiness. Dessert keeps things simple with mochi ice cream, made in house - a perfect way to finish.

Drinks-wise, there’s a sharp, well-judged cocktail list, plus a solid range of wine and sake. Sure, it looks the part for the City crowd, but Wild Izakaya backs it up where it counts.

Wild Izakaya comes from the team behind Goodman, Beast and Pinna and has taken over a site on Old Jewry, directly opposite Goodman in the City, bringing a confident new Japanese offering to East London's Square Mile. The concept aims to bring Japan to London with style and exceptional quality. At the helm is executive chef Satoru Hashimoto, formerly head chef at Koyn and, before that, more than a decade with Nobu. The result is a menu that sings with technique, structured around sushi, robata skewers and izakaya-style plates that suit both quick bar stops and longer dinners.

The decor looks as good as the concept sounds. Rustic wooden sharing tables anchor the space, while sculptural lighting and neon Japanese symbols add edge. It's definitely got that Tokyo something. There’s also a separate bar area that feels designed for post-work drinks and late evenings - a smart move given the City location.

The menu is curated and by no means overwhelming, but has a decent amount of choice. You could start with the King crab cucumber salad and yellowtail truffle sashim, alongside sashimi and a garden salad. The sushi offering covers nigiri, sashimi and maki: akami, toro and otoro sit alongside salmon, yellowtail, Japanese turbot and red bream. Rolls include spicy tuna, unagi with cucumber and yellowtail with creamy wasabi. From the robata, skewers such as wagyu kushi with kouji sweet soy, negima jidori chicken and tsukune chicken meatballs bring depth. Deep-fried plates like agedashi tofu, rock shrimp tempura and nasu dengaku (aubergine with sweet miso) add texture and contrast.

Drinks are a serious draw. The sake list is extensive and thoughtfully organised by flavour profile, from delicate and aromatic to rich and umami, including rare bottles such as 20 Years Daruma Masamune. There’s also a strong wine list highlighting Japanese producers globally. As for cocktails, the Muscat Pisco Sour and Izakaya Martini (Belvedere vodka, Iichiko sochu, Kenbishi sake) are clear standouts.