Lokhandwala closed May 2019
This curious Indian is steeped in Victoriana via an elongated backstory, but luckily its small plates and cocktails should please you enough to hear it. In 1912, Lady Charlotte Fitzrovia eloped with a Mumbai street boss from the Lokhandwala district, but ultimately he ditched her and she moved to this address in disgrace. While none of this sounds fun or delicious, Lokhandwala pulls off both. On our visit, the ornately styled room (a mix of Victorian flourishes and garden-themed accessories) was buzzing with a young-professional crowd, eased along by friendly service. The menu starts with vegan shots, smoothies and soups, but the main event is a range of Indian snacks and larger dishes which borrow ideas from global cuisine – think cumin-laced tuna ceviche served with poppadoms. Dishes such as the chicken chettinad, a rich, softly spiced stew served in an earthenware pot, work well, with only occasional misfires: seabass ‘tacos’ (made with potato skins) look the part but don’t deliver on heat or flavour. All of our dishes arrived at the same time, so stagger your ordering if coming for a big meal. Mid-range pricing makes this fair for the area and experience, while those looking for scene-stealing, spiced cocktails have come to the right place.