With a seven-year tenure as head chef at Launceston Place and National Chef of the Year title under his belt, Ben Murphy’s first solo restaurant was bound to draw attention. Literally - throughout our meal, passers-by stop to peer down at the subterranean dining room, and we feel quite smug to be on the other side of the glass.
Before that though, a crescent-shaped bar on the first floor lures us in for a pre-dinner drink. An approachable yet meticulous cocktail list slides from classics to more inventive ideas; a Yuzu Gimlet is mixed with sake and smooth as silk, while an ice-cold Martini - pulled straight from the freezer - is superbly balanced.
Suitably quenched, we descend the spiral staircase to the main restaurant, where waiters glide from table to table with large wooden trays. Warm spotlights, softly curved edges, and gentle instrumental music set a sophisticated tone, offset nicely by friendly, welcoming staff.
First to arrive is glazed milk bread, which tears apart like a cloud, still steaming from the oven and finished with a good hit of salt. A perfect cube of brown butter competes with earthy green hummus for spreading duties, the only logical option being to oscillate between both. It’s a sublime start.
74 Charlotte Street isn’t afraid of dialling up some luxury. Deconstructed lobster comes neatly arranged around a pool of silky bisque, with disks of sweet pumpkin fashioned into a beehive-shaped tart. Then, a signature beef Wellington is where Murphy really flexes his muscles; the tender beef fillet cuts like butter, surrounded by layers of golden, crispy pastry. A light touch of truffle lifts the dish from excellent to extraordinary. On the side, Murphy’s ‘beefy chips’ - braised beef sandwiched between potato pave - are as divine as they sound. All of the cooking is impeccable - precise, carefully considered, and yet heartwarmingly familiar.
A demonstration of Murphy’s self-assurance, 74 Charlotte Street is unapologetically classic, distinctly playful, and notably generous. It may be his first solo venture, but this is less of a step into the unknown - more a victory lap that’s been years in the making.