London isn't just the home of incredible Italian food anymore. Nowadays, the capital prides itself on showcasing Italian cooking region by region, perhaps more faithfully than any other city in the world outside of Italy itself. You’ll find Agrodolce proudly flying the flag for Rome - a city that can, via the invention of carbonara alone, reasonably claim to be the pasta capital of the world.
Inside, the restaurant neatly treads a line between cosy neighbourhood vibes and something a little more sophisticated. There are dinky little bistro tables on the front terrace, primed for summer evenings, but through the door, crystal chandeliers and a very smart herringbone parquet floor make Agrodolce feel rather suave and urbane. Lovely staff, with typical Italian generosity, help to make the restaurant feel welcoming and accessible.
Meanwhile, the kitchen keeps things ultra-classic with true, Roman trattoria cooking. If you're expecting modern frills, you might be best off elsewhere, because Agrodolce just delivers tasty, authentic bites, exactly as you'd expect them in the Eternal City. Case in point, a bruschetta of stracciatella, confit tomatoes and anchovies: it's just three brilliant ingredients on a slice of bread, but the marriage is a good one, and therein lies the beauty of great Italian food.
We'd be remiss not to talk about the pasta dishes, which are split between trad classics and more inventive bowls, like an intriguing tonnarelli with saffron cream and prawn tartare. What we can say is that someone at Agrodolce makes a killer carbonara, with pasta piled high in a glossy sauce, generous with juicy chunks of rendered guanciale. Roman pinsa pizzas, too, are excellent, as they're crispier than their Neapolitan cousins and perfect for sharing between a big group.
Finally, a solid tiramisu, heavy on cocoa and strong espresso, confirms Agrodolce as a worthy torchbearer for Roman cooking in London. No frills, fairly priced, and with welcoming service - if you’re hunting for a slick, relaxed new neighborhood favourite, you’ve just found it.