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SquareMeal Review of Lino

Silver Award

A former linoleum warehouse doesn’t sound like the sexiest of spaces to open a restaurant, but that’s exactly where Lino has decided to set up shop, with its chic all-day restaurant and bar. Lino’s name is one of few subtle nods to the venue’s past life, including exposed pipes and sanded-down wooden doors. Mostly though, this is a stylish proposition, completed by powder-blue and salmon-pink furnishings, and brass fixtures.

The menu is a timely snapshot of London dining culture: it’s big on fermentation and pickling (Lino cultures its own butter and bakes excellent sourdough in-house), it champions vegetables alongside meat – seen in the pairing of flank steak with the humble likes of watercress and horseradish – and the menu lends itself to sharing-style dining.

From the snacks, we were most taken with the crisply-coated croquettes which burst with the umami taste of sauerkraut and Montgomery cheddar – they’re served in a portion of three though, so prepare to fight over the last one. From the more substantial dishes, a lean fillet of grilled mackerel is complemented by oyster mayonnaise and sharp discs of house pickled cucumber, while a velvety meat-free lasagne makes the most of autumnal ingredients: buttery folds of pasta conceal puréed pumpkin and Jerusalem artichoke, topped with a generous helping of parmesan shavings.

At dessert, the school dinner staple of bread and butter pudding is given a much welcomed update, swapping out standard bread for a croissant base and glazed with shimmering marmalade, resulting in a delightfully playful mix of sugar and stodge. Fair pricing and cool, casual staff add to Lino’s appeal – perhaps it’s a little too on-trend or a little too manufactured, but unlike some style-over-substance offerings in the Square Mile, Lino backs itself up with a considered and well thought-out menu.      

 

 

Good to know about Lino

Cuisines
Modern European
Ambience
Buzzy, Cool
Food Occasions
Afternoon eating, Breakfast, Brunch
Special Features
Counter dining
People
Dates, Group dining [8+]

Lino is featured in

SquareMeal Silver Awards

Special offers from Lino

Lino working lunch menu: 2 courses with wine £23

From: 7 May, 2019
To: 31 July, 2019
Max: 4
From a changing set menu. Not available in conjunction with other offers.
Availability: Mon-Fri 12:00PM-2:30PM

Location for Lino

90 Bartholomew Close , EC1A 7EB

020 8016 5199

Website

Opening Times of Lino

Mon-Fri 7.30am-11pm (Fri -11.30pm) Sat-Sun 10am-11.30pm (Sun - 4pm)

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