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You can almost hear the pricking of any pomposity surrounding classic French cuisine as you enter the wildly camp interior of Les Trois Garçons. The opulent surroundings of this Shoreditch stalwart might be de trop for some, but fans rave about the huge chandeliers, kitsch taxidermy (“love the tiara-adorned croc”) and handbags suspended from the ceiling. In contrast, the food has serious intent. Readers praise the £70 tasting menu, yet the carte holds allure too. Start with foie gras, or crab and langoustine tortellini in a zesty lemongrass sauce, before sampling pork cooked three ways, or seared Gressingham duck breast skilfully counterbalanced by pickled cucumber and redcurrant orange jus. Dark chocolate and praline millefeuille makes a fittingly luxurious conclusion. A well-priced Gallic wine list, the cosy hideaway of a chef’s table (in a private room seating up to 10) and “friendly, knowledgeable” staff add to the venue’s flamboyant appeal.
020 7613 1924
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