First opening its doors back in 1880, The Knave of Clubs has lived many lives – it was once the chic Les Trois Garçons, followed by a stint as the more laid-back Dirty Bones. Now the site has returned to its Shoreditch boozer roots, thanks to the hospitality dream team of James Dye, Benjy Leibowitz, and Patrick Powell.
It’s clear from the moment you step inside that they’ve nailed that old-school pub vibe. Cosy, intimate, and clad in dark woods, the space feels warmly familiar. Everything is a little bit mismatched, with high backed booths and wooden partitions that help to break up the otherwise communal space. An ornate, gold-plated mural spans a large section of the back wall, whilst a central bar, flanked by deep olive pillars, adds to the vintage atmosphere. But the real star of the show is the open kitchen, where rotisserie chickens slowly spin, filling the air with an irresistible aroma.
It’s a rowdy Friday afternoon, and crowds gather around large tables, pints flowing freely, and silver dishes of snacks scattered between no-frills cocktails and, of course, the signature poultry. It’s the sort of place where you could pop in for a pint of Guinness and some Taytos, or just as easily spend hours working your way through Powell’s succinct menu of elevated pub grub.
We kick things off with the salmon-speckled fish cakes - bite-sized and perfectly golden, clearly well-acquainted with the fryer. We devour them quickly, only wishing that the accompanying pot of punchy lemon aioli had been double the size. Then comes the scotch egg - but not as you know it. Here, sausage is swapped for prawn, a stroke of genius that transforms a traditionally stodgy dish into something much lighter. Throw in a perfectly runny golden yolk, a playful, sticky and sweet chilli jam, and small chunks of briny pickle, and you have a dish already in the running as one of our favourites of the year.
The Knave Special is also not to be missed. Golden-skinned, chermoula-spiced rotisserie chicken is supremely juicy, showcasing exactly what can be done with just a few simple ingredients. Ultra-crispy roasties, cooked in chicken fat, come with the sort of fluffy insides that you can only dream of recreating at home. Throw in some greens, and a couple of slices of bread to mop up the juices, and there’s not much more you could ask for from a pub lunch.
With its boisterous atmosphere, and classic boozer feel, The Knave is sure to be a hit, and we're jealous of those lucky enough to call it their local.