The Knave of Clubs

British, Gastropub·
££££
·
Gold Award
·

SquareMeal Review of The Knave of Clubs

Gold Award

First opening its doors back in 1880, The Knave of Clubs has lived many lives – it was once the chic Les Trois Garçons, followed by a stint as the more laid-back Dirty Bones. Now the site has returned to its Shoreditch boozer roots, thanks to the hospitality dream team of James Dye, Benjy Leibowitz, and Patrick Powell.

It’s clear from the moment you step inside that they’ve nailed that old-school pub vibe. Cosy, intimate, and clad in dark woods, the space feels warmly familiar. Everything is a little bit mismatched, with high backed booths and wooden partitions that help to break up the otherwise communal space. An ornate, gold-plated mural spans a large section of the back wall, whilst a central bar, flanked by deep olive pillars, adds to the vintage atmosphere. But the real star of the show is the open kitchen, where rotisserie chickens slowly spin, filling the air with an irresistible aroma.

It’s a rowdy Friday afternoon, and crowds gather around large tables, pints flowing freely, and silver dishes of snacks scattered between no-frills cocktails and, of course, the signature poultry. It’s the sort of place where you could pop in for a pint of Guinness and some Taytos, or just as easily spend hours working your way through Powell’s succinct menu of elevated pub grub.

We kick things off with the salmon-speckled fish cakes - bite-sized and perfectly golden, clearly well-acquainted with the fryer. We devour them quickly, only wishing that the accompanying pot of punchy lemon aioli had been double the size. Then comes the scotch egg - but not as you know it. Here, sausage is swapped for prawn, a stroke of genius that transforms a traditionally stodgy dish into something much lighter. Throw in a perfectly runny golden yolk, a playful, sticky and sweet chilli jam, and small chunks of briny pickle, and you have a dish already in the running as one of our favourites of the year.

The Knave Special is also not to be missed. Golden-skinned, chermoula-spiced rotisserie chicken is supremely juicy, showcasing exactly what can be done with just a few simple ingredients. Ultra-crispy roasties, cooked in chicken fat, come with the sort of fluffy insides that you can only dream of recreating at home. Throw in some greens, and a couple of slices of bread to mop up the juices, and there’s not much more you could ask for from a pub lunch.

With its boisterous atmosphere, and classic boozer feel, The Knave is sure to be a hit, and we're jealous of those lucky enough to call it their local.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
British, Gastropub
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Fun, Lively
Food Occasions
All day dining, Dinner, Lunch, Sunday roast
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Group dining [8+]

About

The Knave of Clubs is a pub on the Bethnal Green Road, East London. First established in 1880, the pub was a local favorite for over a century, serving the bustling trading and artisan community of the East End. After closing in the 1990s, the building underwent a transformation and became Les Trois Garçons, a much-loved French restaurant known for its eclectic décor and fine dining.

Now, The Knave of Clubs is reborn as a pub and dining destination, spearheaded by a talented team of hospitality experts. James Dye, co-owner of The Camberwell Arms, and Benjy Leibowitz, formerly of JKS and The NoMad (NYC), are leading the project. Acclaimed chef Patrick Powell, known for his work at Allegra and The Midland Grand Dining Room, will oversee the food offering.

The Knave of Clubs features a traditional-style pub on the ground floor, offering a warm and welcoming atmosphere with a focus on well-crafted pints, fine wines, and a carefully curated selection of cocktails. The kitchen centeres around a rotisserie grill, with standout dishes including chermoula-marinated chicken and classic pub fare with an elevated twist.

Additionally, an upstairs restaurant, One Club Row, provides a more refined dining experience. Guests can expect inventive yet approachable dishes that highlight seasonal ingredients and expertly grilled meats.

Complimenting this food offering is a stellar drinks line up. The Knave of Clubs has rekindled its historic association with Allsopp's Brewery, becoming the first establishment in East London to serve the relaunched Double Diamond beer on tap. The bar also offers Guinness, a rotation of beers from independent London breweries, pre-batched Negronis, classic cocktails, and a concise wine list available by the glass and carafe

With its rich history, prime Shoreditch location, and an impressive culinary and hospitality team behind it, The Knave of Clubs is poised to become a go-to spot for locals and visitors alike, blending the charm of a historic London pub with the flair of modern gastronomy.

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FAQs

Are there vegetarian options?

There are a couple of vegetarian options on the menu, but not a huge number.

Helpful? 0

The Knave of Clubs is featured in

Location

25 Bethnal Green Road, Shoreditch, London, E1 6JX
Website

Opening Times

All day
Mon 12:00-23:00
Tue 12:00-23:00
Wed 12:00-23:00
Thu 12:00-23:00
Fri 12:00-00:00
Sat 12:00-00:00
Sun 12:00-21:00

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