Le Chabanais
Le Chabanais
Le Chabanais
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About Le Chabanais

CLOSED UNTIL 31 AUGUST, REOPENING 1 SEPTEMBER WITH A NEW TEAM AND MENU

This sibling to the acclaimed Le Chateaubriand in Paris arrives a month late, after a soft launch in May was aborted due to mechanical difficulties in the kitchen. Le Chateaubriand is one of the leading lights of the bistronomy movement and was founded on the principle of high-end cooking served in simple surrounds in the workaday 11th arrondissement. In contrast, its London outpost has landed on the most expensive square of the Monopoly board. In place of Chateaubriand’s blackboards and tiles are marble and brass; it feels a little like the breakfast room of a very posh hotel. Manager Kevin Lansdown has shuffled down Mount Street from Scott’s, while Chateaubriand’s former head chef Paul Boudier is in the kitchen, with regular visits planned from original visionary, self-taught Basque chef Inaki Aizpitarte. Bar a couple of duds – bland St Jean de Luz tuna, and a bitter chocolate mousse rendered almost inedible by a sprinkling of sea-salt crystals – we enjoyed what we ate: chicken livers held in ravioli parcels of almost dim-sum lightness, sitting in a head-turningly intense fennel broth; perfectly cooked Dover sole served with the barest of brown butters to allow the subtle flavour of the fish to shine; and a gleeful take on a Paris-Brest pastry (though a preceding side order of buttery mashed potato was so rich it had already practically qualified as pudding). This is accomplished modern cooking to be sure, but it’s served in an environment in which all the rough edges have been smoothed off: the sort of polished Mayfair gem that the international super-rich will admire, but may leave many ordinary Londoners distinctly unexcited.

 

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
Modern European

Location for Le Chabanais

8 Mount Street, London, W1K 3NF

020 7491 7078

Website

Opening Times

Mon-Sat 12N-3.30pm 7-10.45pm

Reviews of Le Chabanais

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2 Reviews 
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Mr. Matt E

I wonder if this is what Inaki Aizpitarte had in mind when launching in London
20 July 2015  
Oh dear. We had high hopes for this place, having had a fantastic meal at Mugaritz a few years back and two superlative experiences at Le Chateaubriand. This place does Inaki Aizpitarte a disservice and should be avoided by anyone expecting the following: great food; lovely ambiance; good service. I don't usually pen reports of truly bad experiences, but this one was up there with the worst (for somewhere costing comfortably north of £100 a head), so I thought I would share it with others. First impressions are well captured by Square Meal - like a hotel restaurant. It's not clear what feeling it is intended to create. It is neither intimate, nor romantic, nor brash, nor elegant. Like some (but for the wrong reasons not all) of our meal, the decor is instantly forgettable. The menu is odd. We could not find a theme. It is a relatively limited a la carte affair, which includes, for the mains, a grand total of 3 side dish choices, one of which, we were told just before our main dish arrived, was suddenly off the menu - apparently something had gone wrong with the spinach! So instead, we had a plain plate of broccoli, looking like something an elderly relative might serve up, only for £5 plus service. Things had gone wrong well before then, however. I won't recount the conversations with our sommelier, save that he was the rudest, most arrogant waiter I have ever encountered in London. We weren't alone in our astonishment at his "customer is always wrong" attitude and his lack of attentive service. The couple at the table next to ours was equally astonished, unhappy and frankly outraged. I should add that the other waiters were impeccable. My starter of mackerel in some cold samphire and lovage soup was a mixed affair. The fish was excellent. There was too much broth and it was pretty tasteless. It did not really complement the fish. For mains, we chose the cote de boeuf and asked for it rare. It came with a horseradish dish, which was necessary because the beef, simply served sliced on a plate for us to serve ourselves, was very dry and really rather disappointing. The horseradish dish was not moist enough to compensate for the dreary meat, but at least meant it was edible. There was, however, superb mashed potato, plus the broccoli. The lack of blood or moisture on the meat was apparently due to the fact that it was some fancy aged beef. Regardless of the reason, it was not very good. Desserts were unremarkable, so much so that I have already forgotten what they were, 3 days after eating them. The maitre d', aware that we had had a bad experience, very kindly brought us two glasses of champagne. He then asked about our meal. When we started enumerating our various issues with the experience, he became defensive and prickly. This was a pretty awful meal. Substandard food, no ambiance and shocking service from the sommelier. A real let down and I am amazed that a celebrated chef such as Inaki Aizpitarte would wish to be associated with it. One for Londoners to avoid.
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Ms/Mrs. Jean T

Worth waiting for!
13 July 2015  
We were disappointed when our original booking had to be cancelled but it was well worth the wait for Le Chabanais! The elegantly understated dining room with beautiful clean lines give an indication of the sophisticated simplicity that we were going to experience. The menu looked very basic and gave very little indication of the delights to come! My husband started with the Chicken liver ravioli with fennel broth which he thought was outstanding and I had the Cornish crab, coriander flowers & white cabbage which was delightful with a very vibrant, fresh flavour. For mains I had the Lamb with spring salad and feta which was stunning - two beautifully pine cutlets in a blanket of vibrant green vegetables and finished off with a generous dusting of feta cheese - this dish really worked. The waiter recommended the Guinea fowl with crushed vitelotte for my husband which he really enjoyed - it being a joy to behold and to eat. We had Mont Blanc and the cheese plate for the desert which were superb and excellent value for money. There was a very decent wine list and all in all we very much look forward to our return visit! We will now make renewed efforts to book a table at Chateaubriand or the Mother Ship as the waiter referred to it!
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Value

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