London’s high-end Indian dining is in constant conversation with itself – with colonial hangovers, with curry-house nostalgia, all in a city that won't stop reinventing what it already loves. Jamavar joins that dialogue with pedigree and consistency. Like its Doha sibling, Jamavar Mayfair boasts a Michelin star, both preceded by outposts across India that continue to capture the country’s fine-dining faithful.
Dark wood, flickers of brass, low candlelight – Jamavar’s dining room holds a moody, almost Gothic atmosphere. It’s serious-looking but never stiff. A bass-heavy soundtrack and the buzz of service keep things bright and grounded; Jamavar sits firmly on the lively side of fine dining.
The menu runs wide: think shareable small plates, tandoori, curries, and dals. It’s not overwhelming, but sheer variety makes choosing a small torment. There’s a tasting menu for that, though staff guide newcomers expertly toward the hits.
Of those, soft shell crab is a highlight: crisp and feather-light, gently spiced with Tellicherry pepper, and accompanied by a swipe of plum chutney. Equally impressive is the malai stone bass tikka: just-singed at the edges, juicy within, it carries the perfume of mace and green cardamom, tied together with an addictive avocado mint chutney.
Spicing is deftly handled: measured, layered, never monotone. Yes, some dishes might feel dialled back for Western palates, but the kitchen hasn’t dulled its fire. Case in point: Old Delhi butter chicken, far from a token low-spice menu item, offers a tingling tomato-fenugreek sauce that’s deep but never heavy, with enough heat to keep you reaching for another silky spoonful.
If you’re tempted by ceremony, Jamavar’s biryani is your showstopper. Entombed beneath its pastry lid, dum tarkari offers sweet, saffron-steamed grains with onion and seasonal veg, all mingling in a dizzying cloud of aromatic steam.
Not everything lands with the same impact. The shahi palak paneer could use some char, and Malabar prawns want a touch more salt. But even these near misses lean into comfort rather than complacency.
To finish, we close the loop with a dense, buttery pistachio cake and a few cups of creamy, prickly spiced chai. Together they deliver the closing warmth that runs through the meal: technical, comforting cooking, flecked with nostalgia. No reinvention necessary.